Why I Changed My Skin Care Routine

As a curious and research driven self care lover, changing my habits and routines is a given from time to time. After listening to episode 20 of Forever 35 with Kate's facialist, Courtney Chiusano, I looked through my routine for the two main things she said to avoid; irritants in makeup products and excess exfoliation.

What is Bismuth?

Bismuth, an ingredient found in most powder foundation, blush and eyeshadows, was talked about, an ingredient I hadn’t heard of before. After looking through my makeup drawer, I found it lurking in some products.

Courtney says this can irritate your skin and cause micro cuts. Yikes. In my powder foundation and blush, pictured below, it’s listed as bismuth oxychloride. I stopped using these powders to see if my skin would change. It used to be necessary for me to use face powder daily when my skin was oily and out of control like in the summer.

"Some people react to bismuth oxychloride due to its unique crystalline structure. What happens is that the crystals can "poke" at skin and get stuck in the pores, where the sharper "spokes" can cause irritation. This is more of a problem when bismuth oxychloride is the main ingredient in powder makeup." - From Paula's Choice Ingredient Dictionary

I have a spot on my right cheek that is always irritated and dry. No matter what or how many products I layer on top, oils and exfoliants, it stays angry, inflamed and cracked. I didn't think the irritation was caused by powders because it was on only one cheek.

But after I stopped using both powders within a few days my cheek already looks better. The redness and irritation is almost gone and the texture is becoming the same as the rest of my face.

Almost a week later, the perpetually dry spot is basically gone. I want to spread the word just in case others don't know about this irritant hiding in make up powders. Feel free to do your own research and internet sleuthing because I'm not a chemist or ingredient expert.

“The number one mistake is always over-exfoliation.” - Courtney Chiusano

Excess Exfoliation

The other mistake Courtney sees is too much exfoliating. I thought my excessive exfoliation habits were gone but apparently not. I don't use physical exfoliants on my face anymore unless very gentle. Chemical exfoliation is my first choice for any skin problem. Pimples? Exfoliate. Anything undesirable on my face? Exfoliate.

Previously, I used the 1% BHA liquid from Paula's Choice on my face nightly but it was discontinued. I swapped it with the 2% BHA liquid from Paula's Choice. It seemed to be working well keeping my pores and face clear. Then my face started getting irritated. Instead of toning down the exfoliation, I dialed it up slathering my whole face in a nice coating of BHA nightly.

In addition to saying goodbye to my face powder and blush, I stopped using my beloved BHA that night. I was terrified random pimples would pop up. The next day, I anticipated disaster on my face but my skin looked fine and less irritated.

I decided BHA should be an every other night part of my routine. I thought it was working wonders until it made my skin revolt. When I'm not using BHA I make sure to add a few drops of marula oil to add moisture.

Less Exfoliation, More Moisture

I fell into this faulty line of thinking, again, where moisturizing is kind of important but exfoliating and drying out my skin is more important to keep pesky pimples away. I've been trying out this new routine and my face has no new pimples and a smoother texture.

There is always room for changes in your routines. I've wanted to start using more natural beauty and makeup products so this is a good jump start for me. Make sure your routines and products are working well for your skin and skin care goals.